THE ORANGE REVOLUTION

Forget about the trial of former prime minister Yulia Tymoshenko with ex-president Viktor Yushchenko of Ukraine, condemning a 2009 gas deal with Russia story, what I'm talking about is the trend that can be seen in the runways and editorials for menswear at present. The return of very bright, very sunny, very perky...ORANGE. So, members of the style jury let me ask you to consider the principle and to examine the  pieces of evidence.

Richard Chai leads other designers (New York Fashion Week S/S 2011) in sending the message for buyers and consumers that it's the perfect time to loosen up this spring. Last September 8, 2011 the American fashion designer sent his army of models in a tropical ease wearing hues ranging from turquoise, and sea-foam green and of course orange. Referenced as one of the “new Asian” influences on modern design, his collection for S/S 2012 (specifically the menswear) appeared geared to two distinct camps: the grown-up skater with perhaps a touch of meat on his bones, and the bony hipster with a high tolerance for quirk. Either way the explosion of colors were definitely "eye candy" as Richard Chai himself said before his show.

The dynamic designing twins behind the label Dsquared2, Dean and Dan Caten showed their typical youthful & sexy looks for Spring 2012 in Milan. Describing their most recent collection as “Sartorial-minded sportswear for guys who aren’t afraid of color.” Quite obviously, with models donning their colorful outfits. Dsquared2 knows how to do color blocking with the most unlikely bright orange thrown in but the look was delicious paired with distressed blue jeans and other items.

L'Officiel Hommes Korea second issue features a full editorial regarding this trend entitled "Orange Ground." Brazilian top male model Francisco Lachowski graces the cover and appears in a solo spread styled in ensembles with a pop of orange to brighten up the entire outfits. Photographer Kim Hanjun captures the Ford model's stylish streaks wearing various shades of orange from the fall collections of Prada and Mugler, among others.

To safely rock this juicy hue, without resulting in a fashion police violation, keep your orange item simple. Remember to mix and match it with whites, browns, blacks and for the more daring go for the block look by wearing it with turquoise and purple (trust me it works.) Just pick the right orange that complements your skin tone, there are various shades to choose from, ranging from neon to coral. And yes, the verdict is in!

THE HUNT FOR THE NEW CREATIVE DESIGNER AT DIOR

The Dior creative director position has sat empty since the dramatic firing of John Galliano in March, who was shamed by a series of drunken, anti-Semitic outbursts. The question of who will take the top job at Dior has remained since Galliano's ousting. Media-wise the search for Dior's next creative designer seems to have taken on a life of it's own . Let's review the past events as we progress to the latest development of this story. 

• March 2, 2011 - Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, YSL's Stefano Pilati of Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci were the favourites to take over from John Galliano at Dior. Balenciaga's  Nicolas Ghesquiere, Nina Ricci's Peter Copping and Roland Mouret were also rumored to be top candidates for the positon of creative designer.

• March 4, 2011 - There had been from those in the know in Paris stating that Riccardo Tisci is already being lined up to replace Galliano for Christian Dior - and that  Haider Ackermann will take over his role at Givenchy.   
  
  
• March 8, 2011 -  there had been talks that Riccardo Tisci (the Givenchy Designer)  was confirmed at Dior inspite of numerous reports flying  from fashion insiders, Dior remains unconfirmed. When asked about the rumor, the Givenchy designer would only say "I felt this was a strong, positive season. And I'm happy at Givenchy."

• March 9, 2011 - Tweeters at Style.com said that they didn’t want to “add to the Dior rumor mill” when they revealed that “people in Paris are asking, why has the Lanvin team been in tears all day?” Alber Elbaz being a top candidate for the job, according to WWD, unfortunately the Lanvin's creative director felt he couldn't leave behind his job and equity stakes.The same reasons goes for Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquière.

• April 1, 2011 -  Bernard Arnault (CEO of the French conglomerate LVMH) told the LVMH and Dior shareholders meetings yesterday that there is no rush to replace Galliano at Dior. He added that the team at Dior, who took a bow following the autumn/winter 2011-2012 show, will create the collection without a creative director in the meantime: "They are effective, creative and accustomed to doing so," he said, WWD reports.

• April 20, 2011 - Sarah Burton the creative director of the label Alexander McQueen, was the latest designer to be named by the press as a possible Christian Dior creative director. Burton, has been touted by WWD as someone in the running for one of fashion's biggest jobs. 

• April 20, 2011-  At the 2011 CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund party, Prabal Garung was on every fashion journalists radar for unexpectedly tossed in the ring as a possible replacement for John Galliano at Dior. He got a little nervous when asked about the subject and all he would say was this: “I feel extremely blessed that I’m in that lineup of designers that I’ve admired all this while…it’s unbelievable. It isn’t something I was expecting…I’m just going to say i was very humbled, grateful and thankful. I don’t want to say more.”

• April 21, 2011 - In an interview made by Cathy Horyn with the creative director of Rochas Marco Zanini, the designer was asked if he could design for Dior. He answered,  "I think, yes. The way I work; if I told you, you’d be bored to tears. It’s not about me imposing my style on a brand. There are some people who impose their signature in a very overwhelming way and there are others who do it in a subtle way, like a little signature in a corner. Not speaking as a designer, I hope they’ll put someone at Dior who will not walk down path of a caricature, the over-the-top thing. It would be so refreshing to see a Dior that could look real. That’s what happened with Céline. Women fell in love with it. They saw something cool, elegant, smart. At Dior, let’s hope it’s not a predictable choice."

• April 26, 2011 - "Well I'm not a consultant there, but I think Riccardo Tisci would be good, and then Haider Ackermann at Givenchy - not because they're friends of mine, but because they're good," were the statement given by Karl Lagerfeld to W magazine regarding who should succeed Galliano at Dior.

• June 20, 2011 - There were speculations that  Azzedine Alaïa turned down the Dior's offer as the next creative designer. Vanessa Friedman wrote her explanation regarding this issue in defense of the designer who has taken a stand against the impossibly demanding nature of the fashion cycle. Concluding that one of the houses that most embodies that continuous pressure is Dior; indeed, when former designer John Galliano imploded, the pressures of the system were cited as major contributing factors.

• August 8, 2011 - WWD editor Bridget Foley endorses Marc Jacobs as the perfect fit for the Dior job. Stating that, "He knows how to run major brands, and sell everything from clothes to perfume to accessories. If he made Louis Vuitton accessories as hot as he did through collaborations like the one with artist Takashi Murakami, imagine what he could do for Dior accessories, which don't feel so hip. His fashion shows — very significant marketing opportunities for houses like Dior especially — "are among the handful that get the insider audience excited in advance," Foley adds. She believes he would make good use of the couture atelier, having put out increasingly "hand-worked" collections for Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton over the seasons.

• August 11, 2011 - Brazilian website Glamurama claimed to have spoken to sources close to Bernard Arnault, who insist Marc Jacobs is at the top of the Dior hit list. Jacobs denied he was in the frame for the job back in March, declaring: "I haven't been asked", whilst LVMH had no comment to make on the rumor. 

• August 22, 2011 - the whispers have been further substantiated by sources close to the brand - and a possible Vuitton successor has emerged in the shape of Phoebe Philo. Philo's move to Louis Vuitton would not stop her designing for Celine. Such move would be another major overhaul for the LVMH family.

• August 25, 2011 - Rumors of  Marc Jacobs taking over at Christian Dior gain full steam. "According to sources," writes the ever-reliable fashion newspaper, LVMH head Bernard Arnault has been in talks with Jacobs, currently designer for two eponymous lines as well as Louis Vuitton, about filling the top spot at Christian Dior. Now WWD gives the gossip some veracity by writing, "One source cautioned that a deal with Jacobs is not assured, but that the American designer and Dior management are so far excited about the prospect."

After Alber Elbaz, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Azzedine Alaïa, Sarah Burton, Ricardo Tisci, Haider Ackermann and other notable designers have reportedly linked to this fascinating search.  Six plus collections a year is no easy feat, and LVMH boss Bernard Arnault is notoriously critical. Someone needs to sign a contract soon and revive the Dior label. 

MY MARTHA STEWART MOMENT

The "Student's Acquaintance Party" at work has been moved next Saturday instead of this 13th day of August. For my friends in the Western world, acquaintance party is a formal black tie dance  event (but in my college it is a semi-formal attire event), or gathering of college students from different departments. It is typically held near the beginning of the school year. It figures greatly in Phili popular culture and is a major event among college students, think of it as a prom, now you get the picture. Anyway because of this it got me thinking about some of the accessories men may use to jazz up their usual ensemble of oxford shirts, ties and trousers.  Behold! The "Lapel Flower Pin". I really like the lapel flower pin from Lanvin.  You can wear it on a suit lapel or  place it a few inches away from the left collar of your oxford  to achieve a sophisticated finishing touch to formal dressing.

 

Lanvin Buttonhole Flower Pin £102.66. To view full details click HERE.  Not ready to shell out the cash for an upgrade? Don't worry, try to channel your inner Martha Stewart by creating your DIY lapel flower pin...LOL. Here's how:

These are my "pin-it-everywhere" brooches.  I can pin them to any coat, top or shirt and it instantly transformed my piece of clothing into something much more special.

MATERIALS: 

       Fabric ribbons, a needle and a thread, glue gun, and  button badge pins / safety pins.

PROCEDURE:

• Do a rough running stitch all the way along the edge of the fabric ribbon. The stitches don't have to be even or the same length or anything. Make sure you've secured the thread at the start of your stitching, by knotting the thread or just stitching over the first stitch a few times. Stitch all the way to the end of your strip of fabric.

• Gently pull the thread and push the ribbon down it: this will gather the material and give you the ruffle. Hold the two ends of the ribbon between your thumb and index finger, while still pulling the thread tightly to keep the ruffle, well, ruffled.

• Once you've done that, thread the needle through anywhere - this stops the fabric from fraying. You may also want to do a few more stitches to secure the thread and make sure it won't come loose.

• Then attach the button badge pin by using the glue gun - and you're finished.
  
  

DADDY KARL LAGERFELD IS HUMAN AFTERALL

“Sunglasses are like eyeshadow. They make everything look younger and prettier.”

-Karl Lagerfeld

The German designer was spotted in a moment of vulnerability as he removed his sunglasses while eating in a cafe during his vacation in St. Tropez. Rarely is the 77-year old creative director of Chanel seen without his trademark heavily tinted eye wear, whether fending off flash bulbs at fashion shows, or at work in his atelier. He revealed his eyes once before, when sketching on camera for the documentary "Lagerfeld Confidential", so it truly was a refreshing moment for all Lagerfeld followers to be seen him  again without his sunglasses and caught a glimpse of a softer and more "human" side of Mr. Lagerfeld. 

But what will amaze everyone about this man of style is his self-imposed strict dress code, despite the sunny climate during his holiday. His outfit of tuxedo trousers and immaculately tailored jacket combo remained. Looks like we'll never see Mr. Lagerfeld sporting a speedo like Giorgio Armani, Garavani Valentino and Roberto Cavalli.

The legendary Karl Lagerfeld (born Karl Otto Lagerfeldt on September 10, 1933 in Hamburg) is a German fashion designer, and artist , he runs 3 fashion houses namely, Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, and Fendi. He is also a photographer and designed for Chloé from 1963 - 1983 and 1992 - 1997. German born, he now resides in Paris.

STATEMENT-MAKING ACCESSORIES FROM BOSQUEJO

Bad Boys are brash, cocky and they marches to the beat of their own drums; they're on (or over) the edge and present themselves to be fearless - oftentimes can back it up. Here are some reasons why men will love the latest offerings of Bosquejo.

 New on it's Hardware Collection are, "Tisiphone II", "Alecto", "Magaera", and "Eumenides", all part of the Furies Razor Series (finally, a mysterious, sinister, and very avant-garde take on men's accessories).

Produced from an ensemble of stainless steel razor pendants, nuts and ball chains, with coated nickel beads and fasteners. All four embody that interesting dangerous appeal that deserves attention, just like the "Bad Boys" most women want. Ahh! Bad boys...What is it about these guys that women find so irresistible?

Bosquejo is a collection of jewellery lines created by Miguel Paolo Celestial. Inspired by the materials that were not usually use as accessories - such as metal, wood, stone, and plastic. It is an anthem to the Filipino creativity, celebrating ingenious style. The pieces are intentionally androgynous, wearable by both men and women.

Bosquejo boasts seven different collection - Azul, Djjin, Feline, Nunca, Sacre, Sand and Hardware. It offer a range of styles that appeals to a variety of tastes and preferences.

 Bosquejo is now available at Anthology 2/F Power Plant Mall, Rockwell, Makati. For more inquiries you may contact Mr. Celestial at miguelpaolocelestial@gmail.com or check out this link: http://www.bosquejobazaar.com/. Another great thing about the Bosquejo - custom orders are always welcome.

Photography: Rxandy Capinpin. Styling: Ryuji Shiomitsu. Fashion: FIP menswear. Accessories: Bosquejo. Grooming: Katchie Mejias. Models: Terence Lloyd and Jessica Chiao-han Yang.

ROBERT DUFFY (MARC JACOBS INTERNATIONAL PRESIDENT) IN HOT WATER

Robert Duffy is the president of Marc Jacobs International.He has been working with Marc since 1984,you can say that the man knows Marc better than anyone else. In the fashion world, it seems, behind every successful designer there's a Robert Duffy - a right-hand man who drives the artist to create a viable business. The designer Yves Saint Laurent had Pierre Bergé, who took charge and financed his company after Saint Laurent suffered a nervous breakdown in 1962. Valentino has Giancarlo Giammetti, a brusque enforcer who, after nearly 50 years, protected the designer from the mundane details of balance sheets so that he can focus on his opulent creations.

Duffy's talents lie in multiple areas - as a retailer he has even moved more merchandise per square foot than Steve Jobs; as a corporate infighter he has proved adept at protecting his partner's vision; and as a facilitator he has made sure that every element of the corporate culture at their company is an extension of Jacobs.

Unlike Bergé and Giammetti, Duffy seems to enjoy the spotlight and the drama that surrounds it all. Lately, there are news of awkward workplace behaviors — such as when Duffy started tweeting and posted photos of men in the office lifting their shirts to expose their torsos; theres the video of himself posted in YouTube as he stripped down to his tighty whities in the company's stock room; and of course the high profile sexual harassment case filed by a former employee who says he was fired for objecting to company President Robert Duffy forcing employees to pole dance and look at gay porn. However, the group has responded to the allegations saying that the reports are false.

It is bad to have a sexually charged atmosphere at work, and that no one should feel threatened or harassed. Not really stylish Mr. Duffy!

TOM FORD AND RACISM

Even a fashion savvy individual might not have any slight idea who is Nicolas Ghesquiere or Stefano Pilati is, but any person with a passing interest with fashion and style, will stop in his track when he heard the name Tom Ford.

Tom Ford is an American trained architect, businessman, marketing master, film director, and above all, a fashion designer. Last July 4, 2011 he graced an interview with Kawai Wong (a reporter from Time Out HongKong). Where they talked about his larger than life presence and charm, his new comedy movie (still everything is a hush hush), his desire to have children and penchant for women, the weight problem of most Americans and how the population of London is catching up (he even compared them to their Slim Asian counterparts).

Here's an excerpt from the interview in which Mr. Ford was mostly making observations.

For this spring summer you cast Liu Wen, Du Juan and Rinko on your catwalk. What made you gravitate towards them?

Well, first of all, two of them are models and they are beautiful, and Rinko is an actress who I adore and I loved her in Babel. I’ve always been quite multicultural and it’s funny that someone asked me in an interview yesterday if I had any Asian friends. I felt that was such a strange question. When you grow up in America, contrary to popular belief, we are racially blind because we’ve had Japanese and Chinese families, five generations, living in America. So we grow up with Asian-Americans, African-Americans, European-Americans. And I don’t think she’s my Asian friend. She’s my beautiful friend, she’s my dumb friend that asks me crazy shiii… she’s my fabulous friend, she’s my chic friend, she’s my… I’m colourblind. When you do a fashion show it’s very important and it’s a responsibility to represent a multicultural cast.

A friend who works at LVMH said of Liu Wen: ‘She looks Caucasian because of her face, her straight nose, her cheekbones…’ Do you think people regard these Chinese women as beautiful because of their perceived Western features?

[Mildly irritated] No. I think, and don’t take this the wrong way, all of your questions have a very odd racist slant, because you have grown up here. And don’t take that the wrong way; it’s not a negative thing at all. Honestly, growing up in America and Europe, I don’t think as racially as the questions you are asking.

Well, for one…

[Interjecting] I had a journalist earlier ask me a question which, I had to say, found really shocking. He asked me if those flowers are fake. And I said ‘No, they’re not fake, they are real.’ He said ‘I don’t believe you’. And he went over and looked. And I said, ‘They are cymbidium orchids wired to long stems because you can’t get cymbidiums in long stems. But they are real.’ So he looked at them, came back and sat down. I said, ‘Why did you ask me if they were fake?” He said, ‘Well, you are American’. [Laughs] I was like: ‘What does that mean?’ He said, ‘Well, you know often Americans are very fake and you have fake things and so I thought they might be fake.’ And I said: ‘That’s such a racist comment!’ [Lowers voice] He was German.

One may say that Mr. Ford really got himself in trouble. Although the designer thought most of the questions about differences between Western bodies and Asian bodies were "regionalistic" and even "borderline racist".

ANNA WINTOUR RECEIVES LEGION D' HONNEUR IN PARIS

Last night, the US Vogue editor has been awarded the Legion d'Honneur (The French equivalent of a knighthood),in Paris by French president Nicolas Sarkozy at the Elysee Palace. Wearing a brand new heavily beaded Chanel Couture skirt suit and sporting her signature bob minus the heavily tinted sunglasses.

Anna Wintour with Suzy Menkes.

Karl Lagerfeld

The immaculate Grace Coddington.

S.I. and Steve Newhouse.

The crowd included Bernard Arnault, Karl Lagerfeld, Stefano Pilati, Donatella Versace, Tommy Hilfiger, Alber Elbaz, Franca Sozzani, and Riccardo Tisci. Superbe taravail Anna!